Our original plan was to sail from McMullen to Paguna, but with shifting conditions we decided to sail up into Northwestern Fjord instead. This was one of many instances when we were thrilled to not have to follow a specific route or timetable, and a good reminder of why vessels are "bound for" places and not "going to" them - the destination could very well change! Having the flexibility to adapt our plans and make the most of the weather and the wind defined our approach to passage planning throughout the summer. We would closely monitor the progression of the fjords' dynamic conditions and keep an open mind to consider the many possible routes. Log Excerpt: 11 June 2020 1100 - Depart McMullen 1530 - Aligo Point 1815 - Northwestern Moraine 2015 - At anchor off Erratic Island in 82 feet Lovely morning in McMullen with frequent trilling calls of Oystercatchers. Took about half an hour to haul back in this deep spot, did the clockwise spiral exit of the cove. Zoomed across to the relative lee of Paradise Cove because it was much windier out in the bay than it looked from the mouth of McMullen. Reduced sail to working jib and double-reefed main, then tacked our way up the west side of the bay and up Dora Passage. Really dark blue water today, clear skies and windy! Steady 20 knots, nothing like the variable 10 knots forecasted. A humpback was cruising in the Dora with us, each exhale being thrown with the sea spray as soon as it was expelled from the blowhole. Long period and fairly large swell coming in from the SE, and a fair amount of wind waves and chop coming from the SSW. Katabatic was riding the swell and chop wonderfully when we were on a port tack headed SW, but it was bouncy when on a starboard tack with the confused and conflicting seas. The wind was building as we approached the southern tip of Granite Island, where we decided to tuck into the passage and check out Northwestern Fjord for a few days instead of beating to weather to get to Paguna along the outer coast. A great call. Steady wind off the quarter with still a bit of swell, so we struck the main and calmly cruised up towards the moraine under just the jib. Reset the reefed main then sailed through the moraine’s passage at 1815, just an hour before high tide and perfect timing to let the slowing tide gently help us through. We saw a yellow plane soon after – Paul and Jess! They flew close, dipped a wing, looped around us then flew off toward Crater Bay. So amazing to be out here, and then to have friends fly by! Soft golden light as we sailed wing and wing up the fjord and right to our anchorage near Erratic Island. Stunning views of Northwestern, Ogive, Anchor, and many other glaciers. Easily one of the most scenic anchorages in Alaska. While we were sailing Brent made a veggie roast of potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, jalapeño, thyme, and rosemary in the cast iron and had it in the oven, with the aromas wafting up on deck. We turned off the oven just before anchoring, and sat down for a hot and delicious meal as soon as the hook was set. Incredible day.
1 Comment
Laurie
12/2/2020 02:23:43
These photos and stories are wonderful Emily and Brent. What an amazing experience for you all and we a trilled to be able follow along and learn about the glaciers and their animals and their habits. Thank you.
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Voyage Log
AuthorCanvas & Ice Archives
April 2021
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