Our original plan was to sail from McMullen to Paguna, but with shifting conditions we decided to sail up into Northwestern Fjord instead. This was one of many instances when we were thrilled to not have to follow a specific route or timetable, and a good reminder of why vessels are "bound for" places and not "going to" them - the destination could very well change! Having the flexibility to adapt our plans and make the most of the weather and the wind defined our approach to passage planning throughout the summer. We would closely monitor the progression of the fjords' dynamic conditions and keep an open mind to consider the many possible routes. Log Excerpt: 11 June 2020 1100 - Depart McMullen 1530 - Aligo Point 1815 - Northwestern Moraine 2015 - At anchor off Erratic Island in 82 feet Lovely morning in McMullen with frequent trilling calls of Oystercatchers. Took about half an hour to haul back in this deep spot, did the clockwise spiral exit of the cove. Zoomed across to the relative lee of Paradise Cove because it was much windier out in the bay than it looked from the mouth of McMullen. Reduced sail to working jib and double-reefed main, then tacked our way up the west side of the bay and up Dora Passage. Really dark blue water today, clear skies and windy! Steady 20 knots, nothing like the variable 10 knots forecasted. A humpback was cruising in the Dora with us, each exhale being thrown with the sea spray as soon as it was expelled from the blowhole. Long period and fairly large swell coming in from the SE, and a fair amount of wind waves and chop coming from the SSW. Katabatic was riding the swell and chop wonderfully when we were on a port tack headed SW, but it was bouncy when on a starboard tack with the confused and conflicting seas. The wind was building as we approached the southern tip of Granite Island, where we decided to tuck into the passage and check out Northwestern Fjord for a few days instead of beating to weather to get to Paguna along the outer coast. A great call. Steady wind off the quarter with still a bit of swell, so we struck the main and calmly cruised up towards the moraine under just the jib. Reset the reefed main then sailed through the moraine’s passage at 1815, just an hour before high tide and perfect timing to let the slowing tide gently help us through. We saw a yellow plane soon after – Paul and Jess! They flew close, dipped a wing, looped around us then flew off toward Crater Bay. So amazing to be out here, and then to have friends fly by! Soft golden light as we sailed wing and wing up the fjord and right to our anchorage near Erratic Island. Stunning views of Northwestern, Ogive, Anchor, and many other glaciers. Easily one of the most scenic anchorages in Alaska. While we were sailing Brent made a veggie roast of potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, jalapeño, thyme, and rosemary in the cast iron and had it in the oven, with the aromas wafting up on deck. We turned off the oven just before anchoring, and sat down for a hot and delicious meal as soon as the hook was set. Incredible day.
1 Comment
10 June 2020: Paradise --> Holgate --> McMullen "Sailing around the face of Holgate Glacier was definitely a life sailing highlight for us. It was so quiet, serene, yet we were alert and very aware of the ice. Brent reflected how having been to Holgate so many times, being there under sail felt like the first time he was seeing everything. A fresh perspective on a familiar place. For him, this afternoon was a culmination, or a new level, of driving boats through icy water, reading the wind and water, and having the boat move exactly the way you intended it to. I loved the flow we got into as a team on the sheets and the tiller, streaming through the silt-tinted green-grey waters and making graceful turns around chunks of ice sparkling in the evening sun." We had to tear ourselves away from the glacier in the late evening to sail south to McMullen Cove for the night. We anchored in our usual spot in about 130 feet of water, protected by a shoal with great views of steep mountains, small waves, and a beach combing black bear. |
Voyage Log
AuthorCanvas & Ice Archives
April 2021
Categories |