14 June 2020 Erratic Island (Northwestern Fjord) to Quartz Bay (West Arm Nuka Bay) via McArthur Pass 0900 - Haul back at Erratic Island 1015 - Northwestern Moraine 1930 - McArthur Pass 2300 - At anchor in Quartz Bay Amazing start to the day with a tiny harbor seal pup on an iceberg drifting right past the boat while we were drinking coffee. Hauled back, netted some brash ice to top off our ice box (while we were still near tidewater glaciers), and crossed the moraine with the tide. Set sail and worked to windward for the next few, well, 9 hours.
Nice light breeze at first, then steadily filling into a strong day breeze which was forecasted for SW 20 kts. Gusts to 30 kts as we sailed out along the outer coast. We encountered a similar pattern with the sea state - small, steep chop at first at the mouth of Harris Bay transitioning to much larger and steeper waves, 5-footers with a short period. Katabatic sailed fairly smoothly considering these conditions, but smoothly still includes a lot of launching and slamming around in the waves. One wave caught the furled genoa and filled it with seawater, so we dragged the sopping wet sail back into the cockpit by our feet to keep it secure and keep the foredeck clear. We enjoyed sun all day with the high pressure system, but also sailed upwind all day. And because of the angle of the wind relative to McCarty Peninsula we felt like we were treading water on one tack, but zooming along on the opposite tack! Fun to see this coastline up close. Some interesting strata, steep cliffs, keeper beaches with large round boulders, and some very weathered trees. Killer whales joined us for a few tacks, and one swam up right next to the boat. They are so large, and you really appreciate their immensity when they're swimming directly at you! The Pye Islands provided a bit of lee as we approached McArthur Pass around 1900. We motored through the pass with the current about two hours before the high tide. Even with a light headwind we were making about 5 kts (usually we go about 4 kts without a headwind, so the tide was definitely helping us)! Lots of seabirds feeding around the current rips, many stands of gnarled trees, and a few panels of a damaged daymarker (the only navigational aid for many miles) remaining after years of storms sweeping through this topographical funnel and tearing at the landscape. Saw a Pacific Loon on the west side of the pass with its distinct silver nape. A nice welcome to Nuka Bay! Unfortunately, the day breeze combined with the strong southwesterlies of the high pressure system were still ripping on the other side of the pass. The wind was compressing against the Pye Islands, steady at 30 kts and gusting between 35 and 40 kts. Steep seas, lots of spray. Our whole rig was humming. It was disheartening to be motor sailing and barely making way at only 1 to 2 kts. We began to ferry out into Nuka Bay to get away from the compression gusts along the coast, which eased the pressure on the rig and allowed us to keep pointing into the wind while sliding across the widest part of Nuka Bay. We cleared Harrington Point, exhaled, and enjoyed a quick dinner-in-a-cup of quinoa and spicy lentils. The wind was still strong but much steadier out in the middle of the bay, allowing us to slowly turn away from the wind and eventually sail downwind into the protection of the West Arm of Nuka. The day breeze died around 2200. Eventually it got so calm that we had to strike the sails and motor. What a wild day of changing conditions! But this is coastal sailing in Alaskan fjords for you. It draws on all your knowledge and experience and patience and grit. It's the most challenging place I've ever sailed, but dang - when you can work with the conditions the stunning landscapes and seascapes make everything worthwhile. We left our stress outside the Beautiful Islands at the entrance of Quartz Bay and smiled at the chart showing a deep, even, and muddy anchorage. Set the hook just after 2300 in 100 feet, decompressed for a minute in the darkening cabin with the glow of a Luci light (haven't been awake at this time for awhile!), then slipped into a deep sleep. Relieved to be here after 58 nautical miles today!
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